Raymond's Jeweler's Diamond Buyer's Guide

Raymond's Jewelers of Watertown Connecticut has created this guide four point guide to help you selecting the right diamond.  Typically, four different factors are considered when judging a diamond's cost and quality:

• The diamond's color
• The clarity of the diamond
• The diamond's cut
• Carat weight
  

These four elements have become known as the "Four C's" of selecting a diamond.  After reading our guide you will better understand diamonds and perhaps be closer to knowing which diamond is best for you.  Click below to learn more and view helpful diagrams.

There are many shapes that a diamond may be fashioned into, such as round, pear, and oval. Cut does not refer to the shape, instead, cut refers to the quality of the proportioning,  symmetry of the facets and polish of the cuts.

The most common is the Brilliant round diamond. Round diamonds are typically cut with, 58 facets. (Flat edges). Better proportioned facets mean more light will be reflected back into the viewer's eyes. This is extremely important, because if a diamond is cut properly, it will create a more sparkling appearance.

Diamond cuts are measured by a factor called "the table percentage".  A Jeweler should be able to provide this to you, so always ask for it. Typically, a good table percentage should be between 55 and 60 percent.

Many gemologists consider the quality of the cut to be the single most important diamond characteristic.  Even if a diamond has perfect color and clarity, a poor cut will reduced the perceived brilliance of the stone.

Aspects of a diamonds cut:

Diamond colors are categorized on an industry scale from  D - X for white and yellow diamonds. D is the whitest possible color, while around S diamonds become known as "Fancy yellow Diamonds". You'll also find a variety of other possible colors for diamonds, including blue, pink, green and even brown, though brown diamonds are usually irradiated.  

There is no wrong choice when it comes to diamond color.  Some people prefer a colorless or near-colorless diamond with an ice-cold whiteness, while others prefer the golden glow of yellow or of another warmer color.

As far as typical costs go, you can expect diamonds with no color (like D, E, F) to be more expensive due to their rarity. Grades (G, H, I, J) diamonds are near colorless and are less expensive. 

Seen below is an official color grading scale that will help you to better understand diamond color.  This chart is recognized by the international diamond trade and laboratories. 
 

"Carat" of a diamond is often confused with "Karat" as a measure of gold purity.  "Carat" does not measure size, instead, it is a measure of the physical weight of a diamond.  The formula for calculation therefore is Total Price = Weight x Price per Carat 

As you might expect, larger diamonds often cost more per carat due to the rarity of available large size raw diamonds.  What determines diamond carat?

In Diamonds, there are 100 points to each carat, so a 50 point diamond is 1/2 a carat.  When selecting a diamond it is important to get the actual point size of the diamond rather than a fractional weight.   "Discount" or Internet Jewelers have been known to sell a .90 diamond as a 1 carat diamond for example.  Always insist on point values. 

•  The personal  style, size of your finger, as well as the size and style of the setting is more important than just overall diamond size alone.
  

• It is important to note that the smaller the finger, the larger the diamond will appear. A 1.5 carat diamond  looks much larger when the recipient is a size 4  than a size 8 for example.

• If you have already chosen a setting it is extremely important that you choose a diamond that is appropriate for your ring.

Clarity refers to how free a diamond is from naturally created "birthmarks", which are tiny, often microscopic imperfections that make each and every diamond unique.  These tiny imperfections are refered to as "Inclusions" if they are found on the inside of the ring, and "Blemishes" if they are found on the outside.  Inclusions and blemishes have little or no effect on the brilliance of a ring.

Diamonds are assigned clarity grades based on visible Inclusions that  can be detected with ten-power magnification.  

Here are the measures of stone clarity:

Flawless diamonds have no inclusions and are therefore extremely rare and also more expensive.

VVS1, VVS2
This grade will have the smallest inclusions. VVS1 inclusions can only be seen through the pavilion, while VVS2 inclusions are more visible, with VVS1 inclusions being much harder to see than VVS2.

SI1, SI2, SI3: will have small inclusions that are often only visible under a scope.

I1, I2, I3: have inclusions visible to the naked eye. 

The chart below will help you understand the definition of clarity grades and give you some idea of how clarity each grade compares to one another.